Technologically Challenged! Back to School at 64

Is it ever too late?   If you actually remember the Beatles' song 'When I'm 64', then maybe you will relate to this post.  I have decided to go back to school to work towards a Masters degree.

It isn't the workload that worries me.   It isn't the term papers.  It isn't the time management.
It's the technology.

For anyone who is reading this post and has spent hours tearing out their hair over seemingly simple things - like registering for classes,   please do not despair.  You are not alone.

I have decided to take this technology bull by its bloody horns.

This is the voice of a technologically challenged 64 year old who is determined to put technology where it belongs:  in a very user friendly place.  Please feel free to add your suggestions - your rants - or whatever.

Standing Ovation to Aeroports de Paris wheelchair assistance crew!

Talk about first class service!   Our arrival in Paris was made wonderfully easy thanks to the assistance of the wheelchair assistance staff at Charles de Gaulle Airport.  If you have any reservations about traveling with special needs, do not hesitate to fly to CDG.   We were treated beautifully.

Something New in Paris: Customer Satisfaction Counts!

Have you found your happiness? (Votre bonheur).  This is the current expression that customers are likely to encounter when they go shopping in Paris.  And given the state of the economy at this juncture, keeping customers happy is a top priority.

I have to say that there is definitely a small revolution going on here in customer service.  And it's happening not just in boutiques geared toward tourists but in all types of shops including your local  mom&pop grocery stores.

Here are some recent examples:  At the SIMPLY grocery market, close to where we stay,  a sales clerk took the time to change a sales slip for me - to give me credit.  The self-service robot counter had overcharged me for a case of bottled water (because two of the six bottles had been removed). 

The corner bakery that I avoided all last summer because of a sales clerk who consistantly tried to shortchange me has been replaced by a sales clerk who actually undercharged me.  (Of course,  I did politely suggest that she might doublecheck the bill).

As for the womenswear boutiques,  sales clerks are smiling and attentive and they seem to want to do everything possible to help you find your happiness.

Of course, we all know that happiness cannot be found in a shopping mall - even if Emile Zola entitled his novel - Au Bonheur des Dames - but Paris's new attitude is enough to make you smile :)

Your Dog in Paris: Finding a good Vet and a good Groomer

This is only Hercules' second week in Paris and he's already found a groomer that he loves and a good veternarian, just walking distance from the apartment!   Needless to say, we are all thrilled to know that Paris is dog heaven!  Rather than write two posts,  I'm going to fill in the details at  Parisgirlshopping.com!  See you there - in a hop, skip and a jump!

Excuse me for cutting this short - but the sun is shining and Hercules is eager to take a stroll down the Avenue. 

Bringing Your Dog to France

When I first wrote about dog-friendly Parisian parks for Parislogue.com,  little did I realize that years later,  I'd be walking our very dear Hercules, a five-year-old Shi-Tzu, in the Luxembourg Gardens.  But, here we are.  And if you've had any apprehension about bringing your pet to Paris,  do not despair!

France is a dog/cat friendly nation, but dogs, in particular seem to get a warm welcome, especially if they're cute, well-groomed, and well-behaved in cafes.  Another thing to keep in mind is the fact that France is a rabies-free country so that the paperwork, should, in theory be minimal to return to the US.

Just be sure that your dog is up-to-date on his rabies shots, have your vet complete the international health certificate that can be found online.  We made a trip to Miami to have the USDA provide us with a certification form for France,  but when we arrived at CDG airport,  along with our dog (who accompanied us in the cabin of our Air France tourist class seat),   absolutely no paperwork was requested by French customs.  Of course, this doesn't mean that every time will be the same.  Always have your medical paperwork and documents handy- just in case.

Air France/Delta accepts service dogs in the cabin.  They are obliged to remain on the floor, always attached.  In our case, because Hercules weighs just under 12 pounds,  we were able to find a comfortable traveling bag for him which is useful as well for traveling in France, i.e. taking trains or local buses.

I also have a wicker shopping/picnic basket that is just the right size for taking Hercules on buses or crossing parts of the gardens where dogs may not be allowed to walk.  Luxembourg Gardens has one specific area allowed for our four-legged friends.  They even have their own drinking fountain. 

US Airways: Silly Policy but Not Discrimination

US Airways should apologize for embarrassing passengers denied access to First Class because of their clothing, but the report of race discrimination on this morning 's Today show is sensationalizing a silly policy.  During one of our frequent flights to France,   we were waiting to board Economy Class when an attractive well-dressed Caucasian woman approached me and asked to borrow my shoes!  I thought it was a joke and was looking for the hidden camera.  But it was no joke.  She then explained to me that she was an off duty airline personnel who was flying First Class on a special pass.  She only discovered that there was a dress code when she arrived at the gate.  Because she was wearing open- toe shoes, they would't allow her in First Class.  Other than her shoes, she was neatly dressed in blouse and dark trousers.

Unfortunately, I only had one pair of shoes because the rest were checked, but before the plane departed, I went up to First Class to make sure she had found a pair of shoes from someone else.  She had and was happy to be flying to Paris First Class.

If you pay full price you can probably wear whatever you please no matter what race or gender you may be, but flying on a Buddy Pass apparently has a dress code.  US Airways should have the courtesy to e mail passengers in advance if there are dress codes.   Passengers already get enough humiliation going through security.   We're all in the same boat.  But,  if US Airways wants to fly me to Paris First Class for free  as long as I wear close-toe shoes, hey that's fine with me.
My shoe size is 9 1/2.  And my toes are SO UGLY, they should be covered up even in Economy Class.

Paris Snow in 2009 Global Warming Effect?

Then and Now -Waiting for the winter snows to melt away in France,  Parisgirl has found a little bit of Paris right here in Boca Raton, Florida.  If you would like to know more, stay tuned andshe will tell you about a great little boutique that has a je ne sais quoi attitude, reminiscent of a chic Left Bank boutique.

Virtual Black Friday Shopping

Say "No!" to Impulse Shopping. Just say "NO!" Today I decided to stay home - as far away as possible from any mall, shop, or commercial center. Of course, when your car is at the garage, it's even easier. However, if you are like me, a shopper, driven by the aesthetics of the activity, then certainly you may have been tempted to do a little cyber-shopping yesterday on Black Friday? So, for all my shopping-challenged friends, I've created a little Christmas gift of Parisian virtual shopping called Parisgirlshopping.com. Given the fact that airfares are ever-escalating, along with hotel stays, and exchange rates between the dollar and the Euro, perhaps a trip to Paris isn't affordable - but that doesn't have to stop any of us from enjoying the sights and delights of Parisian shop windows and Christmas-lit boulevards. So, enjoy a little bit of virtual shopping at Parisgirlshopping.com!

Much Ado about Hemingway

For years we've been trailing in his footsteps. Name any bar in the world and chances are, he got there before us. He's been getting on my nerves for years, but there are certain hallowed grounds one is never supposed to tread upon, and the unshakeable belief of 'those Determiners of Literary Greatness' have deemed Hemingway as being a 'Great American Writer'. And my response is he is without a doubt 'A Great American Drunk'. It was Stresa on Lake Maggiore when I finally decided that enough was enough and that it was time to start questioning the 'Authorities'. Is Hemingway all that he's cracked up to be? Were you also force-fed 'The Old Man and the Sea' in high school English classes? I have just finished reading "A Farewell to Arms" as our tour bus traces the route that Frederic Henry chooses to escape arrest when he flees Italy for Switzerland. Only in his case, rather than hopping on a tour bus, he rows across Lake Maggiore with his very pregnant girlfriend, Catherine or 'poor Cat'. If you met this guy in real life, you would run fast in the other direction, and one wonders what Cat saw in him. Reading the dialogue of these 'star-crossed lovers' is enough to make you upchuck even if you aren't dealing with morning sickness. Just the sheer repetitiveness is aggravating. Talking about courage and bravery, one must be a brave and courageous reader to wade through a lot of crap to get to Hemingway's nuggets of brilliance. Of course, they are there. And there is no doubt that if you actually do get to the end of this depressing story, you get to walk away with the image of a stillborn child described as a 'freshly skinned rabbit'. Hemingway may be deemed the Great American Writer because he leaves you with bloody carcasses in his wake. What do you think?

Have you broken Federal Law in your Bathroom?

It would be a bad way to begin the new year - by breaking federal law, so, in the spirit of transparent bathroom glass doors, I thought I might share this news alert: Are you aware that you may be breaking federal law if you are not cleaning your toilet bowl according to the directions on your cleaning product label? The cleaning product in question is regular bleach. Please read the label of your regular bleach product carefully. You may note as I noted this wording: Directions for Use: It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. I am worried that if I do not follow the procedure, this could be extremely risky: Here's the procedure for toilet bowl cleaning: "To sanitize and deod0rize pre-cleaned toilet bowls, use 1 cup of this product." What if I only have half a cup of product left? Must I buy a new container of bleach to remain consistent with the labeling? "Flush, pour in bleach, swab with brush making sure to get under rim." This makes good sense. Getting on under the rim is crucially important and the whole procedure would be a complete failure if one didn't get under the rim so from a strategic viewpoint, let's make sure that we all get under the rim and the world will be a better place for it. "Let stand for 10 minutes" Here's where I am worried. Are you letting your bleach stand for ten minutes? Because, quite honestly, I think I may have failed to wait that complete 10 minutes - and, would this be considered to be inconsistent with the labeling directions? Is that ten minute standing period negotiable? "Flush. Do not use with bowl cleaners or any other household chemicals." This is where you want to be really careful. Apparently very strange things may happen if you should mix up procedure #1 which requires a 'pre-cleaned' toilet bowl. For example, if the slightest residue of the previous products you may have used (for pre-cleaning) should have mixed with the bleach you are currently using, all bets are off. Strange things may happen - case in point - avoid at all costs the interaction of bleach with cat pee. Trust me. I would not give you this warning otherwise. Bleach is a handy product to keep your home tidy, but it also needs to be used properly according to label guidelines. Isn't it nice to know that your government is watching out for your and wants to keep you safe? Here's a toast to clean homes and clean living!

European Designed Bathrooms?

Happy Holidays et Bonne Annee aux amis en France!!! Parisgirl has returned to Cyberland after an entire year of condo renovation in south Florida. Pour nos amis Europeans, je vous donne un conseil - gratuit: N'achetez jamais une propriete en Floride avec des travaux 'a faire'. Nous avons un proverbe en anglais: "Time flies when you're having fun." Quant aux renovations en Floride: "Money flies and you're not having fun." Quick translation: Here's some free advice folks: Don't ever buy a property in Florida with 'a little work to be done', (unless you're a contractor or very handy). And if you're still foolish enough not to heed this advice, you had better have a really good sense of humor. For example: Here is the hottest news in bathrooms: Glass doors for total transparency. That's right. Even though we may not have total transparency in banking and business. At least you can have total transparency in your home. We have already received compliments from neighbors on our 'European style bathrooms'. (Although, I have yet to visit a European home with transparent glass bathroom doors). Trust me, we did not intentionally order bathroom doors with transparent glass. Our custom-made Feather River doors (which we ordered through Home Depot) have 'bronze reflective glass'. So, when you are on the opposite side of the bathroom door, you look slightly bronzed but, you are still clearly visible from the other side. (This is when you'll be happy you stuck to your Dukan diet.) Seeing as we weren't on site when the bathroom doors were installed, I guess Home Depot, Feather River and our contractor who installed the doors thought we'd be okay with the idea of transparent bathroom doors. But, I'm not sure we'll be having many guests coming to visit. Or even coming over to dinner. If you do still want to visit, please remember to bring your own curtain. Chers amis, nous vous invitons venir diner quand vous voulez- mais apportez vos rideaux, SVP! Translation: Dear friends! Come for dinner when you wish - but be sure to bring your own curtains!

Paris Opera House on Strike

What would the Phantom of the Opera have to say about a mechanics' strike at the Opera House? Last night (September 21st) was the first Gala event of the Fall 2011/12 season and a major Franco-American event. The ballet production Lifar Ratmansky will tour the US after Paris.

This is our second experience with a Garnier Opera House Gala tarnished by a strike.
Last spring's strike did not stop the entire show. This time the show did not go on.
Nevertheless patrons of the arts were invited to drink champagne, and enjoy the famed Garnier staircase. For the gala event, the staircase was enshrined with an array of white floral bouquets. And champagne flowed non-stop.

Wandering through the ornate halls in the evening felt somewhat eerie at times. I was eager to regain the remaining group of stalwart supporters resplendent in their sparkling gowns and tuxedos.

Perhaps, having viewed the film Melancholia the previous evening, tinged my perspective. I recalled the conversation between the two sisters. They are awaiting the collision of the two planets: Earth and Melancholia. One sister suggests going out on the terrace and toasting with a glass of wine - to which the other sister replies the thought of drinking a glass of wine on the terrace is revolting. Instead, she suggest to her nephew that he helps her create a magic tent where they will be safe.

Certainly, a canceled show at the Opera isn't the 'end of the world'.
But, it may well represent a world that has almost imperceptibly changed course.

Are we headed for a collision between those that love the arts and those determined to display their total control over all aspects of our lives? There are no magic tents and no safety nets. But better to build than destroy. In creation, we affirm our soul. Even if we create only to have all turn into dust.

To quote an acquaintance from Greece, "You cannot avoid politics. We eat, drink, and breathe politics every day of lives." Donc. Bonne sante.

Dukan Diet news

Tailoring a Great French Diet to your Florida Lifestyle

For those of you who followed my Parislogue posts about the Dukan diet three years ago, you'll be delighted to know that the Dukan diet has finally hit the US of A! I just picked up a copy of the Crown Publishing edition and it's a beautiful translation of Dr. Dukan's inspiring call to arms.

And let's face it, losing weight - whether you want to lose one pound or fifty pounds is a battle against an army of junk food, constant attack of food advertisments, impulse food at cashier check-outs, and the daily stress that drives us to find refuge in our sense of taste and texture.

If you haven't yet read, The Dukan Diet, read it from cover to cover, and tell me you're not inspired to take up arms and do the good battle for your health and happiness.

I have done the diet - and can tell you that it does work. That isn't to say that there are pitfalls if you're doing this for the long haul (all of which are honestly mentioned in the book!).
But also know, that I am here for anybody who wants to take a stab at the program.

Something new about the US version of the Dukan diet:
Originally, exercise was not emphasized with the exception of taking stairways as opposed to elevators - but in places like south Florida where you're living on the 12th or 18th floor of a condo, taking the steps everyday would be a REAL work-out. Therefore, the US edition does emphasize 20, 30, or 60 minute walks as part of the program.

Some of the things not mentioned in the book are your psychological preparation before beginning the diet, so here are some additional suggestions which I've found to be useful:

Assess the influences good and bad around you before undertaking a diet.

Begin by clearing your kitchen and refrigerator of any food that remains as a temptation. If you share your kitchen with others that have no interest in dieting, then you need to set aside a portion of the kitchen/refrigerator that is yours and yours alone.

Do not panic when you are invited out to a restaurant. Accept the challenge. Servers will always try to load up your plate and you need to insist on what you want.
Protein happens to be the most expensive item on a restaurant menu so most restaurants will load up your plate with carbs to mask the miniscule piece of fish or meat. Tell them to bring out your steak, fish, chicken or veal with NO pasta, no potatoes, no rice and the chef will most likely be too embarrassed to skimp on your protein.

When it's time for an aperatif, club soda with a twist of lime is bubbly and refreshing.
Going out to eat is part of south Florida culture - you can enjoy it doubly when you know you are following the plan and working toward your goal.

So, if you've been hesitating to start the Dukan diet, wait no longer!

The Secret Life of Moles

Although I promised you that the New Year's post would be my 'last' Parisgirl post, I decided that we couldn't leave France (and, particularly, Normandy) without a word about moles.

While in the US, spring is when a young man's fancy turns to major league baseball, Parisians will be opening up their country places in Normandy and discussing the ideal method for battling the 'mole problem'.

So, I thought this might be the ideal time to bring up the important discovery that Christopher has made about moles. It appears that very few scientists have taken the time to look at the secret lives of moles. For example, if you've ever visited Stonehenge, you might be surprised to know that moles have been building miniature stonehenges on your lawns. Moles choose not any old stones to mark their 'front doors' - those eyesores that deface your perfectly manicured 'gazon'.

All of this observation began on the day that Christopher decided to take a non-violent approach of co-existence with the moles. Rather than choose any of a variety of lethal expulsions (bombing, drowning, or maiming), he merely raked over taupe mounds (the word for mole in French is taupe) as soon as they appeared. After much raking, he observed the curious configuration of stones - most often including a flat stone or two at the entrance of each taupe mound.

After a number of years of raking over taupe mounds, Christopher finally caved into the more conventional approach. This was a sad day. Especially because no matter what technique one chooses, the moles do come back. They were here first.

If you want to make friends with your moles, rake over the mounds, plant with grass seed, fix yourself a gin-and-tonic and wait for the next taupe mound to appear. It's cheap entertainment, and meanwhile you may even break the code.

Happy New Year in Paris 2011

Perhaps you have shared my dream of bringing in the New Year in Paris - the City of Lights. Of course, for Parisians, this dream is easier to realize - but the truth is, ringing in the New Year with friends is not entirely simple when it comes to logistics.

All I can say, if you plan on coming to Paris for New Years Eve - be sure to bring your walking shoes or book your driver well in advance.

This year, it was reported that 350,000 were milling around the Champs Elysees - but for some reason the annual Eiffel Tower fireworks didn't go off as planned. The Metro was supposed to be open somewhat later than normal for the revelers but at 2:30 am, certain Metro stops had already shut their gates.

So, what do you do at 3 am on a cold winter's night when your date is wearing high heels and your hotel is a mere 5 kilometers?

Be sure to know your date's shoe size in advance - and bring along a pair of jogging shoes and a warm pair of gloves.

Happy New Year from Paris!
PS. This is Parisgirl's last post. Yes, Mike I have begun the novel.

The Battle of Cedar Creek Re-Enactment, October 15-16, 2010

Yeah, we were there. And if you have never observed a Civil War battle Re-enactment, WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? (Sorry for the uppercase hype) but for once, I need to be emphatic. We ended up at the Battle of Cedar Creek in Middletown, Virginia, all thanks to Lois at the Wayside Inn, an incredibly cool 18th century coach station and inn with its own share of stories (and a phantom or two, to be sure).

If you don't believe me, ask the folks that are participating in a seance in the slave kitchen tomorrow night? Whether you believe in the spirit world or not, they Wayside has a knack for dragging you back into the past. With creaky floors and finely carved period beds, a potpourri of antiques lovingly collected by the former proprietor, Wayside is simply oozing with history. In fact a Civil War soldier's letter home is framed right above the check-in counter.

But back to the battle. I am not a Civil War buff so I won't go into the details except to say that the men in blue and the men in gray were in abundance along with wives, tents, campfires, musical accompaniment and even a ball, the night before doing battle. Did I mention cavalry? Of course, there were some proud-stepping horses, totally non-plussed by the canon fire.

The weather complied dishing up a sun-drenched fall day for both Saturday and Sunday's re-enactments. Apparently the annual event occurs regardless of rain or sun.
On Saturday morning, we walked to the battlefields with a mass of boyscouts. From the center of Middletown, it's about a 3/4 mile to 1 mile walk to the Union's campsite. The Confederates were shooting from the opposite side of the valley near the Belle Grove plantation. We arrived about 15 minutes before the first skirmish scheduled for 11 am. Fortunately we crossed the valley along a path before the cannons began to smoke and before the cavalry made its first advance.

If you want to photograph this battle, I would suggest arriving early in the day to take photos of the campsites both on the Union and Confederate sides because once the battle begins, observers are requested to stand behind the 'battle lines'. I started shooting (photos, that is) from the hilltop of the Confederate side. You had a good view of the Union soldiers approach - and quite honestly, I think the Confederates had picked a good site to begin the battle. When you cross over from the Union soldiers' camp, you can't see much of anything over that hill and I would have not liked charging into a surprise attack.

Later in the day, at 3 pm, we observed a re-enactment (which according to the commentators actually began at 5 am with heavy fog) the best place to photograph this battle was from the Unionists encampment - just below the gun emplacements. That's where the front lines of the two camps made contact. (In other words, if you're approaching from Route 11, choose a spot in the designated observation area closest to Middletown and the Union soldiers' camp as opposed to the Confederate campsite.

Several of the re-enactors lodged at the Wayside Inn so we were able to discuss more of the details of the time period. As one of the participants mentioned, many of the people who do this year after year (one couple with whom we spoke had been attending for over ten years!) are truly dedicated to 'living the life - and bringing the event to life)

Parisgirl on the 'American Tour'

Even Parisgirls need a vacation, but this is ridiculous. I've just realized that this 'endless vacation' has been going on since June, so for those tried and true readers - an apology is long overdue. Parisgirl and company is currently on the 'Great American Tour' and we have kicked off the excursion with 117 Degrees Farenheit temperatures in Los Angeles (a record!).

We have recently discovered (in Johnstown, Pennsylvania of what consists a 'gob'.
And very soon, we will be trampling across Civil War battlefields. TO BE CONTINUED

Paris Opera: Rossini at the Garnier Gala

There's a reason why going to an Garnier Opera gala in June doesn't make sense - even if it is Rossini's 'La Donna del Lago' which NY Times writer George Loomis describes as "rare as it is irresistible."

This is my fourth gala event: Ballet Russes at Garnier last December, La Somnambule at Bastille, and last week, La Donna del Lago at Garnier.

It's equally a 'rare and irresistible' occasion to attend ANY opera at Garnier because the majority of operas these days are performed at Bastille. However, here are some things that you won't read about in the NY Times Review!

First, a little nit-picking: In the libretto, King James V is referred to as Uberto, not Giacomo!


And according to Wikipedia, this June 2010 is the first performance of La Dame del Lago at Garnier! (I am always suspicious of 'first' anything) so I'd like confirmation on that . . . thanks Rochester Girl!

You must really LOVE opera to consider Garnier in June. In the middle of a heat wave, the third level loge turns into a veritable sauna. I can't imagine how the singers fared in Franca Squarciapino's voluminous and metallic garb.

One might rename this gala event June Madness. In sympathy with the transport strike protesting potential changes in retirement laws, the set crew decided to go on strike. Judging by the comments re Ezio Frigerio's stage sets, Garnier's bare stage and the painted landscape backdrop may have been an improvement.

Every opera has its hero - and in this case, Juan Diego Florez's performance was heroic considering that he agreed to perform in spite of being unwell. The announcement was made at the start of the opera.

It was also ironic that an opera that emphasized love of one's nation should be tainted by a strike. (Of course, hopefully strikes are staged because one loves one's nation and wants to make it a better nation!)

If you're not a seasoned opera buff (which is definitely my case), is it really worth fidgeting the second half of La Donna del Lago for a few truly exceptional moments? I was curious to hear Joyce DiDonato, all the way from Kansas, Colin Lee, from South Africa and Juan Diego Florez from Peru performing as the 'three corners of the world' united in one opera. That, in itself is exciting. Even more exciting is to learn that one gala member flew all the way from Japan to hear Florez. This Florez fan has been following him round the world.

For me though, the real hero wasn't on stage. He happened to be one of our tablemates at the Gala 'souper'. This was the kind of person who would see a homeless person on the street, and, rather than walk by him, he'd do his best to find him a place to stay. Sadly, at the end of the evening he mentioned that he suffered from an illness that would very likely render him crippled in a few years. His attitude was optimistic: see as much of the world as he could in the time that he was allotted.

If opera serves any purpose, it underlines the tragedy in our lives. When Dad spent his last four years in a veteran's hospital after a stroke, we would often bring in opera DVDs. Only opera (in my opinion) can translate human suffering - and give comfort. So, when you're bored or squirming when you listen to opera, it may mean that you should attend opera at the air-conditioned Bastille - or maybe you just haven't suffered much in life.

P.S. (The photo of the 'Opera Gala Souper' was actually taken last December. This year, I didn't take my camera but the Souper was held in the Foyer. You won't find a better stage set anywhere than the building itself and the foyer is the 'piece de resistance')

Scandal in Van Gogh's Wheat fields

It couldn't be a better time to visit Vincent Van Gogh's final resting place in Auvers sur Oise: Blazing sun and blue skies, the kind of day which the driven painter would have clung to like a glowing talisman.

We are so lucky to have a guide who can claim this pastoral setting as his own childhood stomping grounds - but things change - even if people's attitudes don't.

Van Gogh had it right when he said that people are more important than things - even if those things happen to be paintings - or sculpture. The beauty (or horror) of art is the chemical reaction it creates in those of us who stumble upon it. One might even go so far as to say that no work of art really is complete until the viewer and the work have made a connection.

Our friend and 'trusty guide' led us along the dirt path to the fields where Van Gogh painted his famous scene of blackbirds. At the crossroads, we came upon this bizarre sailing craft. The craft, piloted by a headless sailor carries an overexposed woman (who has been modestly draped with the craft's flag - so as not to shock more sensitive souls).

From behind us came outcries of 'Scandalous!!!'. Two women and a man approached with their hunting dog leading the chase.
"I had to come up here to see this for myself," said one outraged women.
The two women approached gingerly. The dog barked at the immobile ship with the headless oarsman.

"Look, someone has taken the flag to cover the woman!" says the second woman.
They retreat from the accident scene. Then the man approaches after the two women have walked onward. He ever so gently lifts the blue sheet, and casts a glance upon the female occupant of the sailing ship. A dead calm, in an ocean of a wheat.

I think Van Gogh would have understood.

Meanwhile, we stop to pay respects at Vincent and his brother Theo's gravesites and we meet a lovely group of visitors from South Korea - and, of course, South Korea is the #1 Country in the world - this is what I shout to them. Yes, that's true!!! Where else would you find so many beautiful smiling faces? Oh, Vincent, if only you were here!

Arabian Days in Paris

If ever there were a cure for window washing blues, the recent Orient-Hermes exhibit at the Institute of the Arab World and Culture would be the perfect antidote.

Tunisian-born Leila Menchari captures her childhood and travel memories in splendiforous window dressings. No wonder that Hermes chose her as their Faubourg-St. Honore window dresser for a number of years.

I have to confess that I've been lazy about getting to the Institute of the Arab World and Culture - but finally,thanks to the prodding of a charming esthetician of Sicilian/Tunisian heritage, our weekend visitors were treated to an exceptional exhibit.

Sadly, the institute itself was closed for renovation. But, good chance was with us because the 9th floor restaurant and stupendous view of Paris was most definitely open for visitors (at no charge - for the view). A ride up the elevators allowed us to marvel at architect Jean Nouvel's unique geometric 'light prisms' which double as decor and light filters opening and closing like camera apertures according to the intensity of sunlight.

I've yet to meet a Nouvel building in Paris that I don't love. And the Institute du Monde Arabe is no exception. Of course, how lucky that it should also enjoy one of the best vantage points to appreciate two other fine examples of architecture - Notre Dame's flying buttresses and the far-off domes of Sacre Coeur.

What I admire about Paris is the ability of the city to embrace creative brilliance in all its facets - it is a window on the the world.



During our visit of the Orient-Hermes show, we met a couturier from Fez who regaled us with her handstitched dreamy dresses - perfect for a gala! Helas! The prices were just out of reach for a summer budget in Paris, but maybe a trip to Fez is in our future?

One can dream - and sometimes dreams come true.