It's weird - when I'm in Paris, I feel like I'm in New York in the 1980s and now that we're in Normandy, on a Friday night in the 'sticks', I feel like I'm back in Paris - but of course that's because we're with Parisians - delightful, wonderful, fun-loving, chic, intellectual - oh yes, dear State-Side friends, Parisians have gotten a bum rap. Parisians are a wonderful people. Especially when you meet them for the first time in the countryside. But due to such friends being low-key, I will stop my praise here - and move on to the Norman countryside, a town called Cormeilles in particular.
Cormeilles is not exactly a typical farm town. To begin with, it has antique shops (and any town or village in France that has antique shops isn't quite what you'd call a farm town. But leaving aside the antique shops for a moment, `its merit - from the Parisian standpoint is its great fish market, butcher shop, epicerie and bakery (several bakeries). The crowning glory is an excellent gourmet restaurant (sadly, the chef is passing along the baton to a new owner at the end of this month) but we are reveling in one of his last meals before the changeover.
Friday night, yes definitely, a full house, and a very chic set. Yet, we're nowhere near Deauville. There's a good 40 to 50 kilometers between here and the seaside resorts, and yet the Coquille St. Jacques tastes every bit as good as you'd expect from a Deauville seafood restaurant.
You notice I haven't mentioned the name of the restaurant - I'm holding my breath until the changeover has taken place - and will refrain from yeahs or nays until the new couple gets a chance to get into the groove of things.
In the meantime, we've been frequenting the Cormeilles Friday market which has plenty of goodies for cooking at home. One of my favorite stands is the guy who sells mountain cheeses (yes, in Normandy, buying mountain cheese may sound ridiculous - unless you just like moutain cheeses).
Friends often ask us, 'So, what do yo DO in Normandy?'. If the sun is shining, we do anything that allows us to stay outside as long as possible. And when it rains, we'll probably be playing 'Scrabble' en francais, bien sur! Bisous.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Paris Street Fashion - Fall 2009
The fashionistas have come and gone. Anna Wintour is no longer here 'doing lunch' at Le Voltaire. That leaves us normal street urchins to fend for ourselves. Not a snakeskin trenchcoat to be seen for miles.
What really tickles me is the way fashion magazines try to impose a trouser style or shape for the season. - For the past few seasons, I've been reading about how jeans were supposed to be taking a relaxed form (you may remember that from some of my posts last Fall on Parislogue) but street fashion follows the mood of the moment - and the mood is ANYTHING but relaxed.
I may be in Paris in 2009, but it could just as well be New York in the mid-eighties because the look is all about leggings, slim jeans and boots. Of course the boots have been here for aeons (as well as the indefatigable faux leopard skins) but the super tight jeans (called 'slims') are really slim. Which means for us borderline Size 38s, forget about 'slims'. Trust me. You don't want to go there. Get yourself quickly off to Camaieu where you'll find a pair of perfectly acceptable stovepipe jeans for a more than acceptable price.
But the look that REALLY brings back the eighties are mini dresses served up with opaque leggings. This look was really big in NYC around 1984-85, a particularly cold winter for NY - it snowed abundantly. So if you plan on bringing out leggings for your visit to Paris, be sure to look for that fur-lined mini-skirt to accompany the leggings!
P.S. Note the lack of street fashion photos. I've been refraining this season from stopping strangers on the street to take their photo for a blog. Such an invasion of privacy. But if you're a Parisian that LIKES to have your photo taken, than I would be more than happy take a photo for future posts.
What really tickles me is the way fashion magazines try to impose a trouser style or shape for the season. - For the past few seasons, I've been reading about how jeans were supposed to be taking a relaxed form (you may remember that from some of my posts last Fall on Parislogue) but street fashion follows the mood of the moment - and the mood is ANYTHING but relaxed.
I may be in Paris in 2009, but it could just as well be New York in the mid-eighties because the look is all about leggings, slim jeans and boots. Of course the boots have been here for aeons (as well as the indefatigable faux leopard skins) but the super tight jeans (called 'slims') are really slim. Which means for us borderline Size 38s, forget about 'slims'. Trust me. You don't want to go there. Get yourself quickly off to Camaieu where you'll find a pair of perfectly acceptable stovepipe jeans for a more than acceptable price.
But the look that REALLY brings back the eighties are mini dresses served up with opaque leggings. This look was really big in NYC around 1984-85, a particularly cold winter for NY - it snowed abundantly. So if you plan on bringing out leggings for your visit to Paris, be sure to look for that fur-lined mini-skirt to accompany the leggings!
P.S. Note the lack of street fashion photos. I've been refraining this season from stopping strangers on the street to take their photo for a blog. Such an invasion of privacy. But if you're a Parisian that LIKES to have your photo taken, than I would be more than happy take a photo for future posts.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Good Hair Day in Paris Means Finding a Plumber
Paris has its own logic. The way to find a reputable plumber is to ask your hairdresser. Ask any Parisian what's the worst thing that can happen in your apartment - it's getting a leak. The second worst thing is having your gas heater break down. Or you can simply get air in the radiator pipes at the beginning of the fall season. But then try to find someone to resolve the problem.
You can do as we did - sign up for a contract with a company that promises to come by once a year to clean out your gas heater (chaudiere) but then you read the small print and realize that this doesn't include purging the radiators or whatever else needs to be done to get the get heat moving throughout the apartment.
The hairdresser located on the main floor of our apartment house had a flood last week after torrential rains - and I caught a glimpse of the plumber who responded to her SOS. He looked like a responsible sort - so yesterday I supplicated the hairdresser to share this treasured address.
He showed up this morning and apologized for not arriving at 8:30 on the dot. He rushed to resolve the problem - and when I asked him what we owed him, he said 'Nothing'. Am I dreaming Toto? This is Paris, not OZ.
Needless to say, I followed up the plumber's visit with a trip downstairs to the hairdresser for 'the works'. After all, one hand washes the other.
I will gladly share the name of the hairdresser with you, but you may have to wrestle for the name of the plumber.
You can do as we did - sign up for a contract with a company that promises to come by once a year to clean out your gas heater (chaudiere) but then you read the small print and realize that this doesn't include purging the radiators or whatever else needs to be done to get the get heat moving throughout the apartment.
The hairdresser located on the main floor of our apartment house had a flood last week after torrential rains - and I caught a glimpse of the plumber who responded to her SOS. He looked like a responsible sort - so yesterday I supplicated the hairdresser to share this treasured address.
He showed up this morning and apologized for not arriving at 8:30 on the dot. He rushed to resolve the problem - and when I asked him what we owed him, he said 'Nothing'. Am I dreaming Toto? This is Paris, not OZ.
Needless to say, I followed up the plumber's visit with a trip downstairs to the hairdresser for 'the works'. After all, one hand washes the other.
I will gladly share the name of the hairdresser with you, but you may have to wrestle for the name of the plumber.
Monday, October 19, 2009
Paris Lunch near Gare St. Lazare Train Station
When it comes to lunch, the traditional Tabac/Bar/Brasserie is a pretty sure thing for a substantial lunch. The kind of place to look for is the Tabac/Brasserie that advertises its 'plat du jour' on a chalkboard in front of the restaurant.
We stopped in at the Tabac/Brasserie called Le Liege at 45, rue d'Amsterdam. Metro: Liege
Liege is the Metro stop just after St. Lazare on the #13 line. It's much easier to negotiate than the crowded St. Lazare exit, far fewer steps and confusing passageways. All you have to do is walk down Rue Amsterdam toward the train station, but have your lunch at the Liege brasserie first, before you catch your train.
I tried the plate of the day - magret de canard served with a light sauce and au gratin potatoes for 11 Euros. We shared the chef's dessert - chocolate mousse surrounding a pear. It was perfect. The entire bill with two main courses, a glass of wine and beer plus a dessert was 33 Euros and change. Not a bad price for lunch in Paris these days. The preferred music station is jazz so we were able to listen to a great rendition of the Marseillaise played on jazz violin. The waiter doesn't remember the name of the musician but he'll remember the next time we're back.
(It may well have been Stephane Grappelli!)
What's less brilliant is my ignorance when it comes to using my Bouygues cell phone. I haven't mastered being able to dig out the phone from the depths of my handbag before the caller signs off and then I manage somehow to press the mute key which makes it impossible to reconnect. Does anybody ever bother reading instruction manuels - who has the time? I keep forgetting that a cell phone has calculators, calendars - the time, alarms, all the conveniences. But with all these conveniences, we managed to miss meeting up with friends before they caught their train back to Caen. Perhaps it's better not to let meetings depend solely on the ability to connect with cell phones - the old fashioned way of arranging meeting points in advance has its merit. So if you want to meet, meet us at the Liege brasserie.
We stopped in at the Tabac/Brasserie called Le Liege at 45, rue d'Amsterdam. Metro: Liege
Liege is the Metro stop just after St. Lazare on the #13 line. It's much easier to negotiate than the crowded St. Lazare exit, far fewer steps and confusing passageways. All you have to do is walk down Rue Amsterdam toward the train station, but have your lunch at the Liege brasserie first, before you catch your train.
I tried the plate of the day - magret de canard served with a light sauce and au gratin potatoes for 11 Euros. We shared the chef's dessert - chocolate mousse surrounding a pear. It was perfect. The entire bill with two main courses, a glass of wine and beer plus a dessert was 33 Euros and change. Not a bad price for lunch in Paris these days. The preferred music station is jazz so we were able to listen to a great rendition of the Marseillaise played on jazz violin. The waiter doesn't remember the name of the musician but he'll remember the next time we're back.
(It may well have been Stephane Grappelli!)
What's less brilliant is my ignorance when it comes to using my Bouygues cell phone. I haven't mastered being able to dig out the phone from the depths of my handbag before the caller signs off and then I manage somehow to press the mute key which makes it impossible to reconnect. Does anybody ever bother reading instruction manuels - who has the time? I keep forgetting that a cell phone has calculators, calendars - the time, alarms, all the conveniences. But with all these conveniences, we managed to miss meeting up with friends before they caught their train back to Caen. Perhaps it's better not to let meetings depend solely on the ability to connect with cell phones - the old fashioned way of arranging meeting points in advance has its merit. So if you want to meet, meet us at the Liege brasserie.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Just Back from Mushooming
This is the second year of dry weather in October. Not good for mushrooming. Nevertheless, thanks to our fearless gatherers, we ate mushrooms at both meals over the weekend: twenty-two 'bolets' these are the 'cepe's' cousin, a little bit more 'gras' in taste than the 'cepe' but a very nice accompaniment for a 'pot au feu' or pot roast with carrots, turnips and leeks.
You know the mushroom harvest is sparse when you actually have to count how many mushrooms end up in the baskets. Sadly, no 'pied de mouton' this year - and no trompettes de la mort.
But the camaraderie makes up for any lack of mushrooms. The wine tasting helped us forget - songs and fireside stories - a visit from Madame La Comtesse - ahh! That's life at the chateau.
You know the mushroom harvest is sparse when you actually have to count how many mushrooms end up in the baskets. Sadly, no 'pied de mouton' this year - and no trompettes de la mort.
But the camaraderie makes up for any lack of mushrooms. The wine tasting helped us forget - songs and fireside stories - a visit from Madame La Comtesse - ahh! That's life at the chateau.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Paris Opera House Bastille: Barber of Seville
Give me a choice between Garnier Opera House and Bastille and I'll opt for Garnier every time. Bastille would be perfect - for a rock concert. Past president Francois Mitterand may have built the Bastille opera house with the intent that more Parisians might be able to attend the opera - but, for the most part, going to the opera tends to be an event for the privileged - those that can scramble to the internet site in mid-July to secure tickets for an October date. It cost us 116 Euros per ticket for first balcony seats - yet I've been told over the years that the balcony is the best acoustic location for opera. Perhaps that's true at some opera houses - but I found at the Bastille, Figaro (George Petean) was, in certain instances, drowned out by the orchestra.
It's been at least ten years since we went to an Olivier Messiaen concert at the Bastille. Last night's Barber of Seville with mezzo soprano Karinne Deshayes was quite a different experience (October 14th, 2009). If only Coline Serrau, this production's set designer, had been commissioned to decorate the interior of the Bastille as well! Is it possible for a set design to steal the show? The variation of blue and orange/red lighting brings to mind hand-tinted silent film scenes. The depiction of Moorish Spanish palace is exquisite.
George Petean brought plenty of charm and delight as Figaro. Karinne Deshayes showed that she can exercise not only her voice but her ninja capabilities, throwing so much of the set props around - you might want to call her up for your next apartment move.
Supposedly the last night allows for some 'humor' to be thrown in - a little wink of the eye, however according to other internet comments, Count Almaviva's stripping down to a soccer shirt (Zidane's number?) was included starting with the opening performance. More amusing were the few Mancini Pink Panther notes that crept into two scenes.
As for the total 'Bastille opera experience', I have to be honest, the Bastille Opera House is monolithic. If you like that style - fine. I wasn't wowed by the acoustics. There are elevators, but the majority of balcony ticket-holders hoofed it up the steps - and there are plenty, even to get to the first balcony i.e. don't wear your spiky heels!
In fact, you can easily wear your jeans if it isn't opening night. Some people still dress up for the opera but anything goes. (apparently even soccer shirts are okay!) If you are staying around Montparnasse - lucky you. The Montparnasse #95 line can be caught right across the street from the main entrance.
Is it possible to get those 8 Euro tickets that are enticingly advertised on the Opera de Paris website? Who knows? One of these days, I'll figure out how to do that - and if so, we'll be going to the opera much more often. In the meantime, I'm saving up for a return to the Garnier Opera House. There's still no place like it!
It's been at least ten years since we went to an Olivier Messiaen concert at the Bastille. Last night's Barber of Seville with mezzo soprano Karinne Deshayes was quite a different experience (October 14th, 2009). If only Coline Serrau, this production's set designer, had been commissioned to decorate the interior of the Bastille as well! Is it possible for a set design to steal the show? The variation of blue and orange/red lighting brings to mind hand-tinted silent film scenes. The depiction of Moorish Spanish palace is exquisite.
George Petean brought plenty of charm and delight as Figaro. Karinne Deshayes showed that she can exercise not only her voice but her ninja capabilities, throwing so much of the set props around - you might want to call her up for your next apartment move.
Supposedly the last night allows for some 'humor' to be thrown in - a little wink of the eye, however according to other internet comments, Count Almaviva's stripping down to a soccer shirt (Zidane's number?) was included starting with the opening performance. More amusing were the few Mancini Pink Panther notes that crept into two scenes.
As for the total 'Bastille opera experience', I have to be honest, the Bastille Opera House is monolithic. If you like that style - fine. I wasn't wowed by the acoustics. There are elevators, but the majority of balcony ticket-holders hoofed it up the steps - and there are plenty, even to get to the first balcony i.e. don't wear your spiky heels!
In fact, you can easily wear your jeans if it isn't opening night. Some people still dress up for the opera but anything goes. (apparently even soccer shirts are okay!) If you are staying around Montparnasse - lucky you. The Montparnasse #95 line can be caught right across the street from the main entrance.
Is it possible to get those 8 Euro tickets that are enticingly advertised on the Opera de Paris website? Who knows? One of these days, I'll figure out how to do that - and if so, we'll be going to the opera much more often. In the meantime, I'm saving up for a return to the Garnier Opera House. There's still no place like it!
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Renoir Exhibit at the Grand Palais
Matisse raved about Renoir's nudes - calling one of his later works - maybe the best nudes ever painted. Seeing is believing - or not believing. Whether you agree or disagree with Matisse's praise, here's an opportunity to see a large sampling of Renoir's later works under one glass roof - at the Grand Palais.
What really surprised me about this exhibit was Chris's reaction. Normally he's the first person to praise Renoir - and he admitted being somewhat disappointed. The paintings that he loves best are those that were painted BEFORE Renoir broke away from the Impressionist movement so if one was hoping to see the famous guinguette scenes (that can be seen at Musee d'Orsay), then you'd be in for a disappointment.
Renoir's attitude toward his painting was quite modest- he saw his work as being a more decorative statement rather than an 'oeuvre'. For example, you could have probably requested Renoir to paint a few living room panels for your Paris apartment (maybe even in a particular theme or color) without insulting the artist. Some of these panels are actually included in the exhibit.
Another surprise for those of us who've only seen his paintings was the exhibit devoted to his sculpture and charcoal drawings. It was also later in life when he moved toward sculpture, but because of his arthritis, he was obliged to collaborate with other artists to be his 'hands'. The result is admirable - and even the busts of his children (which are described in the exhibit as naif) are sweet and frank.
All four of us agreed that his nudes tend toward the same body shape - and one might be tempted to wonder if not always the same body. If you don't like your female forms in the XXX large category - you may not find Renoir's nudes to be so appealing. What is more distressing than that is to note that these 19h century models seemed to have adult bodies and children's heads!
Nevertheless, Renoir's rosy view of the world deserves the attention it has received. There's no better way to appreciate his rich palette than by juxtaposing his paintings alongside a Picasso nude for example (which is also part of the exhibit).
We went to the show on a Monday night because the Grand Palais is open until 10 pm, and because we had purchased the tickets in advance at FNAC bookstore, we were able to go in directly though the 'line-cutter's entrance on the Champs Elysees. The one thing to remember if you buy an advanced ticket at FNAC, you reserve an entrance at a specific time. There's a half hour grace period for arriving late - after that you're out of luck.
We almost missed the half hour grace period. BTW, the Grand Palais, like the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays.
What really surprised me about this exhibit was Chris's reaction. Normally he's the first person to praise Renoir - and he admitted being somewhat disappointed. The paintings that he loves best are those that were painted BEFORE Renoir broke away from the Impressionist movement so if one was hoping to see the famous guinguette scenes (that can be seen at Musee d'Orsay), then you'd be in for a disappointment.
Renoir's attitude toward his painting was quite modest- he saw his work as being a more decorative statement rather than an 'oeuvre'. For example, you could have probably requested Renoir to paint a few living room panels for your Paris apartment (maybe even in a particular theme or color) without insulting the artist. Some of these panels are actually included in the exhibit.
Another surprise for those of us who've only seen his paintings was the exhibit devoted to his sculpture and charcoal drawings. It was also later in life when he moved toward sculpture, but because of his arthritis, he was obliged to collaborate with other artists to be his 'hands'. The result is admirable - and even the busts of his children (which are described in the exhibit as naif) are sweet and frank.
All four of us agreed that his nudes tend toward the same body shape - and one might be tempted to wonder if not always the same body. If you don't like your female forms in the XXX large category - you may not find Renoir's nudes to be so appealing. What is more distressing than that is to note that these 19h century models seemed to have adult bodies and children's heads!
Nevertheless, Renoir's rosy view of the world deserves the attention it has received. There's no better way to appreciate his rich palette than by juxtaposing his paintings alongside a Picasso nude for example (which is also part of the exhibit).
We went to the show on a Monday night because the Grand Palais is open until 10 pm, and because we had purchased the tickets in advance at FNAC bookstore, we were able to go in directly though the 'line-cutter's entrance on the Champs Elysees. The one thing to remember if you buy an advanced ticket at FNAC, you reserve an entrance at a specific time. There's a half hour grace period for arriving late - after that you're out of luck.
We almost missed the half hour grace period. BTW, the Grand Palais, like the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Paris Laundry
Suffering from Paris envy? Think laundry. This post is dedicated to my sister and D. who are in the process of installing an 'almost' brand new washing machine in their apartment. Well, we've been here in the City of Lights for more years than I care to mention - and after too many years of lugging laundry out to the country, I have FINALLY succumbed to the laundromat. This is definitely not a glamorous way to spend a Sunday afternoon in Paris, but in case you've ever wondered about where and how to do laundry here - it's not much different than in the U.S.
The cost for a 14kilo or large load of laundry (called professional load) is 7 Euros (currently) and 1 Euro for a 10 minute drying cycle. Considering the cost of 'Pressing' or drycleaning, the choice is a no-brainer, but really, there seems like so many better things to be doing in Paris. On the bright side, you're likely to bump into some other travelers that eventually make their way to the LavMat. The Sunday crowd at the Rue Delambre (14eme) is a rather dressy crowd. Matching leather boots and shoulder bags, shiny black 'caddies', that's not cadillac, BTW, but the obligatory pushcart which doubles up as a shopping aid for Monoprix.
And you thought Paris was all about glamour?
The cost for a 14kilo or large load of laundry (called professional load) is 7 Euros (currently) and 1 Euro for a 10 minute drying cycle. Considering the cost of 'Pressing' or drycleaning, the choice is a no-brainer, but really, there seems like so many better things to be doing in Paris. On the bright side, you're likely to bump into some other travelers that eventually make their way to the LavMat. The Sunday crowd at the Rue Delambre (14eme) is a rather dressy crowd. Matching leather boots and shoulder bags, shiny black 'caddies', that's not cadillac, BTW, but the obligatory pushcart which doubles up as a shopping aid for Monoprix.
And you thought Paris was all about glamour?
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Twitter Lashback
There's only one reason, no two reasons why I've decided to start blogging (again) while in Paris. The first reason is that the word limit on Twitter drives me crazy. The second reason is for friends who may be wondering if I've permanently disconnected from cyberspace. Commercially speaking, yes. This isn't meant to be a blog about Paris - I just happen to be in the City of Light at this point in time. I have nothing to sell. This is just about 'having fun'. You are welcome to come along for the trip. Cheers.
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