Dear Beloved Reader: I have to apologize for being so lazy - the stories have been piling up and not getting into print, so now it's your turn to tell me about what you'd like to read first:
Here are some topics:
The Gala at the Garnier Opera House: Ballet Russes
Jazz near the Champs Elysees
A good Chinese restaurant in the 13th
Can bicycles turn right on red?
The Isadora Duncan exhibit at Musee Bourdelle
The Dutch Masters exhibit at the Musee Pinotheque
and beyond Paris:
Festival of Lights in Lyon
Friday, December 18, 2009
Snow in Paris
Yes, it does snow in Paris. There's no better time to be here - if you're a photographer, but don't even think about getting in or out of town - especially in a taxi. My heart really went out to whomever hired the cab that was just in front of us, stuck in traffic on the 'periphe'.
Normally it takes just under two hours to drive out to Normandy. Yesterday (Thursday, Dec 17th, it took us three hours to drive from Montparnasse to Vaucresson (which is almost at Versailles). If you can make it to Versailles, you're home free. From that point on, it was smooth sailing and bright sunshine as soon as we passed from Ile de France into Normandy - am I starting to sound 'chauvin'when it comes to La Belle Normandie?
The photo here was taken actually almost a year ago when it also snowed in Paris during the month of February (still in 2009). This was supposed to be my Christmas card this year, but procrastination won out. Merry Christmas to my beloved blogreader!
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Trivia Question for the Day
Thinking about Sara Jeannette Duncan and the Honorable Sir Rash Behary Ghose.
Just what was "The Law of Mortgages in British India" all about?
And, does anyone have a copy of Sara Jeannette Duncan's books on Calcutta? Oh, and by the way, if you want to know where to listen to a Finnish female jazz saxophonist in Paris, I can tell you!
Just what was "The Law of Mortgages in British India" all about?
And, does anyone have a copy of Sara Jeannette Duncan's books on Calcutta? Oh, and by the way, if you want to know where to listen to a Finnish female jazz saxophonist in Paris, I can tell you!
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
French Dinner Conversations
Receiving a dinner invitation in France is a wonderful thing. I may not remember EVERY dinner - but many of them -- going back to the 1970s remain vibrant partly for all the great food served - but primarily for the flow of conversation.
And as Christopher noted this past weekend, people love to talk here - so what do you do when your command of the French language is less than perfect? Take the roller coaster approach and enjoy the ride.
What I love about conversing in French is that - although conversations can be just as superficial - the boundaries appear to be wider. All the etiquette books tell you to avoid discussing religion, sex and politics, but in France, the only really taboo subject is money. (Probably a close second is work).
Be prepared to talk about your president. (and regardless of your politics, don't embarrass yourself by tearing him/or her to shreds). I'm always amazed at how people can discuss politics at great length here - and often - you may never really know how people actually would vote.
And I can guarantee you that you are bound to feel sheepish about how little you really know about your own country. A case in point: Which states border Lake Superior? Usually after a dinner out, I spend the next day googling on subjects ranging from the War of 1812 to the origins of May Day in Chicago.
Sometimes a simple question can create plenty of discussion.
Example: What's the difference between an onion and a shallot?
Although it may be more difficult to speak in French than in English (with plenty of pitfalls and gaffes for sure), sometimes I feel freer to speak my heart in a second language. And thanks to that, the words are getting easier to find - even in English.
And as Christopher noted this past weekend, people love to talk here - so what do you do when your command of the French language is less than perfect? Take the roller coaster approach and enjoy the ride.
What I love about conversing in French is that - although conversations can be just as superficial - the boundaries appear to be wider. All the etiquette books tell you to avoid discussing religion, sex and politics, but in France, the only really taboo subject is money. (Probably a close second is work).
Be prepared to talk about your president. (and regardless of your politics, don't embarrass yourself by tearing him/or her to shreds). I'm always amazed at how people can discuss politics at great length here - and often - you may never really know how people actually would vote.
And I can guarantee you that you are bound to feel sheepish about how little you really know about your own country. A case in point: Which states border Lake Superior? Usually after a dinner out, I spend the next day googling on subjects ranging from the War of 1812 to the origins of May Day in Chicago.
Sometimes a simple question can create plenty of discussion.
Example: What's the difference between an onion and a shallot?
Although it may be more difficult to speak in French than in English (with plenty of pitfalls and gaffes for sure), sometimes I feel freer to speak my heart in a second language. And thanks to that, the words are getting easier to find - even in English.
Friday, November 27, 2009
Thanksgiving Day in France
Although I 've never born children, there has to be at least one similarity between cooking a Thanksgiving Dinner and giving birth - the reflex reaction - the moment the last dishes have been washed or the day after delivery - whichever you please - when you say, "Never again!" And then, the next year, it's as if you're suffering from temporary amnesia and you repeat the whole process. Whether it's end-of-the year holidays or a new pregnancy, it's this kind of memory lapse that keeps the human race going.
So, once more, I've cooked Thanksgiving Dinner, but this year has been momentous. Only twice have I done so in France. The first time was in the fall of 1979 in Paris (shared with Angelique from Cambodia, and Nabbe, Mory & Kadiatou from Guinea- and this time in Normandy with neighbors from England, France and Mauritius.
The pleasure of preparing this meal is knowing that it will be the first time any of our guests have had a traditional Thanksgiving meal. Happily, this is one of the few holidays untarnished by outright commercialism (or nationalism). The original intention of the holiday was quite simply to acknowledge one's gratitude for a bountiful harvest. (Thanks, Thomas Jefferson for confirming the separation of church and state regarding this holiday!)
Whether you believe in God or not, recognizing all the goodness in one's life seems to be an excellent antidote to all the bad news that comes our way.
Thanksgiving Day can simply be another excuse to 'pig out' or stay in bed a few hours later, but also, a wonderful occasion to share with friends around the world.
As for the meal, depending on where you decide to prepare the 'fixins' this is a challenge. Here are some of the ingredients you may have trouble finding in France (especially if you're outside of Paris):
Turkey. Whole turkeys are usually only available starting in December. Although some families prepare whole turkeys for Christmas Day, it isn't as common a dish. I found a frozen whole turkey (with no innards included) at Thiriet, a frozen foods specialty store.
Cranberries (also called 'canberge' but more commonly called 'cranberries') Cranberries aren't cultivated in France - and until the past five to seven years, you couldn't find cranberry products of any sort except in healthfood stores. Nowadays, some large grocery stores sell Oceanspray Cranberry juice and dried cranberries, but fresh cranberries are still uncommon.
Sweet potatoes or 'patates douces' are availabe in produce sections of large grocery stores such as LeClerc or at some outdoor markets.
Canned pumpkin isn't available - outside of American products grocery stores (such as Thanksgiving in Paris). Instead I tried baking a parsnip pie. The word for 'parsnip' in French is 'panais'.
Hard to find spices:
Allspice
Mace
Ground cloves
These, unfortunately are also the essential ingredients for a pumpkin or parsnip pie.
Turkey dressing:
Bread cubes a la Pepperidge Farm variety- quite simply, you make your own.
Lard. A good pie crust, as my neighbors will confirm, needs lard. If you're making a French tart, the crust is 100 % butter, and two of the best tart crusts I've tasted are Jeanne's and Danie's mother's, but thanks to Ivy and Martyn, we have enough lard to make a pie crust. The results are astoundingly good - but I credit that to Ivy's magic touch. She has the just the right technique of blending flour, lard and butter lifting the batter with her fingers like Vladimir Horowitz playing Mozart.
Pecan Pie.
You can't get anymore American than pecan pie. And you can find pecans here, but in small packets. But another key ingredient - corn syrup - is also nowhere to be found.
Corn syrup can be replaced by dark honey or golden syrup - however both of these substitutes create a different consistency.
Not being an organized person, it takes me a long time to put this meal in action - Thanksgiving Eve, I finally turned out the kitchen lights at 3 am and started up again at 9 am on Thanksgiving Day. But unlike a similar meal in the US which can be devoured within an hour (or less!) here, in Europe, we can linger over cocktails (and make turkey gravy at the same time!), add a delicious crusted port to the end of the meal, and if you're really a gourmand, finish off with a cheese plate - none of us got that far.
Which means we'll have to extend the Thanksgiving feast for a second day - which is kind of a Basque tradition of returning for the leftovers. I like this tradition. For those of you who have two days off for Thanksgiving, rather than going shopping on Black Friday, why not just invite your friends and family back for a second day of thanks?
This morning, I'm still giving thanks for Martine, Ivy and Chris who are not shy about washing dishes, Martyn who mashed the potatoes and brought over the lard, Martyn again, who reminded me to take out the bread - and the turkey at the right time, Ivy who boiled and peeled the chestnuts (from her trees), and Peter who provided the cigars (and did the Pilgrims smoke a pipe with Native Americans on that first Thanksgiving?).
I now know the proper way to smoke a cigar, and the proper way to pass the port. So much for which to be thankful - but most of all, good family and good friends. Everything else is just icing on the gateau.
So, once more, I've cooked Thanksgiving Dinner, but this year has been momentous. Only twice have I done so in France. The first time was in the fall of 1979 in Paris (shared with Angelique from Cambodia, and Nabbe, Mory & Kadiatou from Guinea- and this time in Normandy with neighbors from England, France and Mauritius.
The pleasure of preparing this meal is knowing that it will be the first time any of our guests have had a traditional Thanksgiving meal. Happily, this is one of the few holidays untarnished by outright commercialism (or nationalism). The original intention of the holiday was quite simply to acknowledge one's gratitude for a bountiful harvest. (Thanks, Thomas Jefferson for confirming the separation of church and state regarding this holiday!)
Whether you believe in God or not, recognizing all the goodness in one's life seems to be an excellent antidote to all the bad news that comes our way.
Thanksgiving Day can simply be another excuse to 'pig out' or stay in bed a few hours later, but also, a wonderful occasion to share with friends around the world.
As for the meal, depending on where you decide to prepare the 'fixins' this is a challenge. Here are some of the ingredients you may have trouble finding in France (especially if you're outside of Paris):
Turkey. Whole turkeys are usually only available starting in December. Although some families prepare whole turkeys for Christmas Day, it isn't as common a dish. I found a frozen whole turkey (with no innards included) at Thiriet, a frozen foods specialty store.
Cranberries (also called 'canberge' but more commonly called 'cranberries') Cranberries aren't cultivated in France - and until the past five to seven years, you couldn't find cranberry products of any sort except in healthfood stores. Nowadays, some large grocery stores sell Oceanspray Cranberry juice and dried cranberries, but fresh cranberries are still uncommon.
Sweet potatoes or 'patates douces' are availabe in produce sections of large grocery stores such as LeClerc or at some outdoor markets.
Canned pumpkin isn't available - outside of American products grocery stores (such as Thanksgiving in Paris). Instead I tried baking a parsnip pie. The word for 'parsnip' in French is 'panais'.
Hard to find spices:
Allspice
Mace
Ground cloves
These, unfortunately are also the essential ingredients for a pumpkin or parsnip pie.
Turkey dressing:
Bread cubes a la Pepperidge Farm variety- quite simply, you make your own.
Lard. A good pie crust, as my neighbors will confirm, needs lard. If you're making a French tart, the crust is 100 % butter, and two of the best tart crusts I've tasted are Jeanne's and Danie's mother's, but thanks to Ivy and Martyn, we have enough lard to make a pie crust. The results are astoundingly good - but I credit that to Ivy's magic touch. She has the just the right technique of blending flour, lard and butter lifting the batter with her fingers like Vladimir Horowitz playing Mozart.
Pecan Pie.
You can't get anymore American than pecan pie. And you can find pecans here, but in small packets. But another key ingredient - corn syrup - is also nowhere to be found.
Corn syrup can be replaced by dark honey or golden syrup - however both of these substitutes create a different consistency.
Not being an organized person, it takes me a long time to put this meal in action - Thanksgiving Eve, I finally turned out the kitchen lights at 3 am and started up again at 9 am on Thanksgiving Day. But unlike a similar meal in the US which can be devoured within an hour (or less!) here, in Europe, we can linger over cocktails (and make turkey gravy at the same time!), add a delicious crusted port to the end of the meal, and if you're really a gourmand, finish off with a cheese plate - none of us got that far.
Which means we'll have to extend the Thanksgiving feast for a second day - which is kind of a Basque tradition of returning for the leftovers. I like this tradition. For those of you who have two days off for Thanksgiving, rather than going shopping on Black Friday, why not just invite your friends and family back for a second day of thanks?
This morning, I'm still giving thanks for Martine, Ivy and Chris who are not shy about washing dishes, Martyn who mashed the potatoes and brought over the lard, Martyn again, who reminded me to take out the bread - and the turkey at the right time, Ivy who boiled and peeled the chestnuts (from her trees), and Peter who provided the cigars (and did the Pilgrims smoke a pipe with Native Americans on that first Thanksgiving?).
I now know the proper way to smoke a cigar, and the proper way to pass the port. So much for which to be thankful - but most of all, good family and good friends. Everything else is just icing on the gateau.
Friday, November 20, 2009
Dukan Diet Revisited
For those of you who've been wondering - why the lack of posts for the last two weeks - it's because I've been focusing on the Dukan diet.
,
A year ago last August, I started the Dukan diet (thanks Davine, for telling me about the book "Je Ne Sais Pas Maigrir" by Pierre Dukan) The goal was never meant to be drastic weight loss - just some basic maintenance i.e. seven pesky pounds or 3-4 kilos. Unlike the three day juice diets I'd used in the past, the Dukan diet is a long-term eating philosophy with very quick results (within the first week). There are four major phases - the attack phase which is total protein - and nothing more, the cruising stage which adds vegetables (you'll never love a tomato better), the consolidation stage (which allows for two feasting meals per week called 'galas', and the final stabilisation phase which means eating 'normal' 6 days a week and reserving 1 day per week (forever!) to be your total protein day. The other 'forever' addition to my diet is oat bran. Three Tablespoons a day which apparently is not only good for losing weight, but losing cholesterol as well.
The naysayers: After having hit my target weight within one month of starting the diet, and keeping my weight stabilized for five months (even while traveling and during the holiday season), my gyn noted how slim I was and when I mentioned the Dukan diet - she said "don't be surprised if the weight all comes back".
I don't know why she said that (except that rebound is the common occurence for most diets) but isn't there ALWAYS someone who wants to throw a wet blanket on things? Come spring time, my gyn's gloomy forecast came true - a few of the pounds came crawling back - but there was one very good reason for that: smugness.
The Dukan diet isn't meant for wimps by any means - and like any good soldier, you don't let down your defenses when you're coasting. In effect, I let the one pure protein day per week fall by the wayside. Big mistake.
So, if you are midway through the Dukan diet - or if you've finally reached your target weight and feel you can give yourself a pat on the back with a splurge of feasting, think again! The reason I say this now is because any of you who've gotten to the target weight stage know exactly how hard you've worked to get there - and it would be a real 'dommage' to let all that hard work go to waste.
The good part about the Dukan diet is that if you've spent so much time already setting up good eating habits - a rebound is NOT the end of the world - far from it. The key is to get back on track as fast as possible.
So, now, I can happily say after over one year, I am STILL at my target weight - but not without some backpeddling - and a lot of jogging!
I know two of you readers have taken on the Dukan diet stateside and Lori, I love the fact that you called the 'gala' meals - 'cheat meals'. Needless to say, once the Dukan crosses the ocean, there'll be some adjustments for 'American tastes'. Rabbit isn't big in the States but it's a low caloric meat - we have plenty of rabbits to spare in Normandy.
For those vegetarian readers, Dr. Dukan's website offers some suggestions for creating a 'pure protein diet' by using soy-based products such as tofu as well as lentils, and low-fat or 0 % dairy products.
Here are some suggestions for avoiding 'fat traps'.
Beware of night time television viewing. Pick up a video instead. The advertisements are almost ALL based on food products.
Holiday baking projects. It's too tempting to cheat!
Wishing you a happy and healthy holiday season!
,
A year ago last August, I started the Dukan diet (thanks Davine, for telling me about the book "Je Ne Sais Pas Maigrir" by Pierre Dukan) The goal was never meant to be drastic weight loss - just some basic maintenance i.e. seven pesky pounds or 3-4 kilos. Unlike the three day juice diets I'd used in the past, the Dukan diet is a long-term eating philosophy with very quick results (within the first week). There are four major phases - the attack phase which is total protein - and nothing more, the cruising stage which adds vegetables (you'll never love a tomato better), the consolidation stage (which allows for two feasting meals per week called 'galas', and the final stabilisation phase which means eating 'normal' 6 days a week and reserving 1 day per week (forever!) to be your total protein day. The other 'forever' addition to my diet is oat bran. Three Tablespoons a day which apparently is not only good for losing weight, but losing cholesterol as well.
The naysayers: After having hit my target weight within one month of starting the diet, and keeping my weight stabilized for five months (even while traveling and during the holiday season), my gyn noted how slim I was and when I mentioned the Dukan diet - she said "don't be surprised if the weight all comes back".
I don't know why she said that (except that rebound is the common occurence for most diets) but isn't there ALWAYS someone who wants to throw a wet blanket on things? Come spring time, my gyn's gloomy forecast came true - a few of the pounds came crawling back - but there was one very good reason for that: smugness.
The Dukan diet isn't meant for wimps by any means - and like any good soldier, you don't let down your defenses when you're coasting. In effect, I let the one pure protein day per week fall by the wayside. Big mistake.
So, if you are midway through the Dukan diet - or if you've finally reached your target weight and feel you can give yourself a pat on the back with a splurge of feasting, think again! The reason I say this now is because any of you who've gotten to the target weight stage know exactly how hard you've worked to get there - and it would be a real 'dommage' to let all that hard work go to waste.
The good part about the Dukan diet is that if you've spent so much time already setting up good eating habits - a rebound is NOT the end of the world - far from it. The key is to get back on track as fast as possible.
So, now, I can happily say after over one year, I am STILL at my target weight - but not without some backpeddling - and a lot of jogging!
I know two of you readers have taken on the Dukan diet stateside and Lori, I love the fact that you called the 'gala' meals - 'cheat meals'. Needless to say, once the Dukan crosses the ocean, there'll be some adjustments for 'American tastes'. Rabbit isn't big in the States but it's a low caloric meat - we have plenty of rabbits to spare in Normandy.
For those vegetarian readers, Dr. Dukan's website offers some suggestions for creating a 'pure protein diet' by using soy-based products such as tofu as well as lentils, and low-fat or 0 % dairy products.
Here are some suggestions for avoiding 'fat traps'.
Beware of night time television viewing. Pick up a video instead. The advertisements are almost ALL based on food products.
Holiday baking projects. It's too tempting to cheat!
Wishing you a happy and healthy holiday season!
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Booking Opera Tickets in Paris
Past president Francois Mitterand built the huge Bastille Opera House with the supposed intent that opera might become more accessible to the general public.
I'm reminding myself about these lofty 'intentions' as I wait in line at the ticket office at the Garnier Opera House. There aren't many people in line for a good reason. There are normmally only two things you're likely to hear if you're stupid enough to be standing inn line:
"The performance is sold out." or
"The tickets are not yet on sale." Oh, well, it was just a spontaneous thought to drop in on the off chance that the tickets for the Mozart opera IDOMENEO (which opens in January) might possible be already on sale. It's also one of the rare operas that is performed at the Garnier Opera House for those of us who prefer the original 19th-century opera house to the monolithic 'people's opera' at Bastille.
Make no mistake. Tickets to either Garnier or Bastille are not a simple question of finding your way to the ticket office (and for any of you who've been to the Garnier Opera House lately, you know exactly what I'm talking about. Walk half way around the opera to Rue Scribe and duck under all the scafolding hoping that the Phantom isn't throwing anything from the rooftop today).
The whole process has kind of an Alice in Wonderland feel to it. So, here's the scoop:
Ticket sales open first off on the internet website. Look for the little B (Booking) icons. When the B icon is 'on', you can buy, but also check the schedule for when ticket sales open for a specifiic opera. For example the Mozart opera tickets opened on November 9th at 9 am (only on the internet). Telephone sales start on November 30th for phone numbers only outside of Paris and France. If you want to buy a ticket at the box office - you have to wait until December 14th - and the suggestion is to arrive early in the day if you hope to get a ticket. As for those super cheap tickets i.e. the under 25 Euros - your guess is as good as mine about where those tickets can be bought!
Then there are the Gala events which surprisingly are easier to book online. The beauty of the gala is that if you like to make the evening memorable, you can actually get dressed up and not feel out-of-place.
Opera-going in Paris appears to have turned into a sort of sport - catching the best ticket demands patience and persistance as well as a little bit of information. Be sure to check out the entire Opera de Paris website for the advice about when and how to purchase tickets. To date, I've purchased tickets online and it seems much easier than going to the box office.
I'm reminding myself about these lofty 'intentions' as I wait in line at the ticket office at the Garnier Opera House. There aren't many people in line for a good reason. There are normmally only two things you're likely to hear if you're stupid enough to be standing inn line:
"The performance is sold out." or
"The tickets are not yet on sale." Oh, well, it was just a spontaneous thought to drop in on the off chance that the tickets for the Mozart opera IDOMENEO (which opens in January) might possible be already on sale. It's also one of the rare operas that is performed at the Garnier Opera House for those of us who prefer the original 19th-century opera house to the monolithic 'people's opera' at Bastille.
Make no mistake. Tickets to either Garnier or Bastille are not a simple question of finding your way to the ticket office (and for any of you who've been to the Garnier Opera House lately, you know exactly what I'm talking about. Walk half way around the opera to Rue Scribe and duck under all the scafolding hoping that the Phantom isn't throwing anything from the rooftop today).
The whole process has kind of an Alice in Wonderland feel to it. So, here's the scoop:
Ticket sales open first off on the internet website. Look for the little B (Booking) icons. When the B icon is 'on', you can buy, but also check the schedule for when ticket sales open for a specifiic opera. For example the Mozart opera tickets opened on November 9th at 9 am (only on the internet). Telephone sales start on November 30th for phone numbers only outside of Paris and France. If you want to buy a ticket at the box office - you have to wait until December 14th - and the suggestion is to arrive early in the day if you hope to get a ticket. As for those super cheap tickets i.e. the under 25 Euros - your guess is as good as mine about where those tickets can be bought!
Then there are the Gala events which surprisingly are easier to book online. The beauty of the gala is that if you like to make the evening memorable, you can actually get dressed up and not feel out-of-place.
Opera-going in Paris appears to have turned into a sort of sport - catching the best ticket demands patience and persistance as well as a little bit of information. Be sure to check out the entire Opera de Paris website for the advice about when and how to purchase tickets. To date, I've purchased tickets online and it seems much easier than going to the box office.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Grand Palais: Art en Capital '09
Usually when we go to museums in Paris, the majority of artists represented are dead and gone. In fact, you could almost call prestigious museums like the Louvre - mausoleums, but Art en Capital is very much alive. Each year, well over a thousand living artists choose their best work to be viewed, critiqued, or ignored - and the French public responds enthusiastically.
On a rainy opening night, scores of invitation holders waited patiently in line but when you're with friends, the line (or the queue if you prefer) moves quickly. What's really exciting (for me) about Art en Capital is being able to meet up with our St. Aubin neighbors, particularly Gerard Daric and Nicole Camillieri. Gerard's painting is part of the Salon des Beaux Arts (he admitted that the first time he exhibited here was in 1952!) That's more than some of our lifetimes.
As for the experience of seeing thousands of contemporary works of art under one roof by both known and lesser known artists - it's mindboggling. Practically an assault. Gluttony. Of course, the saying is that on opening night, people don't normally get a chance to actually look at much art - some come to see and be seen, or set out their line of attack for future solo visits.
In addition to Gerard's painting, I especially liked the sculptural works using recycled products and the exhibit called L'Art Postal created actually not by one artist, but all those who mailed decorated envelopes to M. Proust. (A book has been published called Postal Art). The variety was as whimsical as a spring breeze (here at the outset of winter).
What I found less inspiring was the cacophony of color. In many cases, I sensed that artists substitute bright color for lack of imagination. But that was just an initial 'impression'. Not being a proper art critic, the opinion is based only on first impressions.
Once again, sorry for not including photos in this post. There WILL be photos soon (as soon as I dig out the right cord for uploading photos!) Visiting the Grand Palais at night is a real treat - it was designed for the Universal Exposition (constructed of the same materials as the Eiffel Tower in 1889)
Since its recent restoration, the Grand Palais houses temporary exhibits - Gerard tentioned in the past, even car show events were set up at the Grand Palais. Nowadays,
The temporary exhibits range from Warhol to Renoir, antique shows and contemporary art. Because the shows sometimes don't last that long, there can be long lines - the best place to get tickets is at the FNAC bookstores.
Often, the temporary shows stay open until 9 or 10 pm. I love visiting museums at night. That must be the result of wandering around Eastman House after closing hours. If you're in Paris, what better way to enjoy the city that staying outside all day and visiting museums at night? Most of the big museums like the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, Quai Branly are open late for at least one night of the week.
On a rainy opening night, scores of invitation holders waited patiently in line but when you're with friends, the line (or the queue if you prefer) moves quickly. What's really exciting (for me) about Art en Capital is being able to meet up with our St. Aubin neighbors, particularly Gerard Daric and Nicole Camillieri. Gerard's painting is part of the Salon des Beaux Arts (he admitted that the first time he exhibited here was in 1952!) That's more than some of our lifetimes.
As for the experience of seeing thousands of contemporary works of art under one roof by both known and lesser known artists - it's mindboggling. Practically an assault. Gluttony. Of course, the saying is that on opening night, people don't normally get a chance to actually look at much art - some come to see and be seen, or set out their line of attack for future solo visits.
In addition to Gerard's painting, I especially liked the sculptural works using recycled products and the exhibit called L'Art Postal created actually not by one artist, but all those who mailed decorated envelopes to M. Proust. (A book has been published called Postal Art). The variety was as whimsical as a spring breeze (here at the outset of winter).
What I found less inspiring was the cacophony of color. In many cases, I sensed that artists substitute bright color for lack of imagination. But that was just an initial 'impression'. Not being a proper art critic, the opinion is based only on first impressions.
Once again, sorry for not including photos in this post. There WILL be photos soon (as soon as I dig out the right cord for uploading photos!) Visiting the Grand Palais at night is a real treat - it was designed for the Universal Exposition (constructed of the same materials as the Eiffel Tower in 1889)
Since its recent restoration, the Grand Palais houses temporary exhibits - Gerard tentioned in the past, even car show events were set up at the Grand Palais. Nowadays,
The temporary exhibits range from Warhol to Renoir, antique shows and contemporary art. Because the shows sometimes don't last that long, there can be long lines - the best place to get tickets is at the FNAC bookstores.
Often, the temporary shows stay open until 9 or 10 pm. I love visiting museums at night. That must be the result of wandering around Eastman House after closing hours. If you're in Paris, what better way to enjoy the city that staying outside all day and visiting museums at night? Most of the big museums like the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, Quai Branly are open late for at least one night of the week.
Monday, October 26, 2009
TGIF in Normandy
It's weird - when I'm in Paris, I feel like I'm in New York in the 1980s and now that we're in Normandy, on a Friday night in the 'sticks', I feel like I'm back in Paris - but of course that's because we're with Parisians - delightful, wonderful, fun-loving, chic, intellectual - oh yes, dear State-Side friends, Parisians have gotten a bum rap. Parisians are a wonderful people. Especially when you meet them for the first time in the countryside. But due to such friends being low-key, I will stop my praise here - and move on to the Norman countryside, a town called Cormeilles in particular.
Cormeilles is not exactly a typical farm town. To begin with, it has antique shops (and any town or village in France that has antique shops isn't quite what you'd call a farm town. But leaving aside the antique shops for a moment, `its merit - from the Parisian standpoint is its great fish market, butcher shop, epicerie and bakery (several bakeries). The crowning glory is an excellent gourmet restaurant (sadly, the chef is passing along the baton to a new owner at the end of this month) but we are reveling in one of his last meals before the changeover.
Friday night, yes definitely, a full house, and a very chic set. Yet, we're nowhere near Deauville. There's a good 40 to 50 kilometers between here and the seaside resorts, and yet the Coquille St. Jacques tastes every bit as good as you'd expect from a Deauville seafood restaurant.
You notice I haven't mentioned the name of the restaurant - I'm holding my breath until the changeover has taken place - and will refrain from yeahs or nays until the new couple gets a chance to get into the groove of things.
In the meantime, we've been frequenting the Cormeilles Friday market which has plenty of goodies for cooking at home. One of my favorite stands is the guy who sells mountain cheeses (yes, in Normandy, buying mountain cheese may sound ridiculous - unless you just like moutain cheeses).
Friends often ask us, 'So, what do yo DO in Normandy?'. If the sun is shining, we do anything that allows us to stay outside as long as possible. And when it rains, we'll probably be playing 'Scrabble' en francais, bien sur! Bisous.
Cormeilles is not exactly a typical farm town. To begin with, it has antique shops (and any town or village in France that has antique shops isn't quite what you'd call a farm town. But leaving aside the antique shops for a moment, `its merit - from the Parisian standpoint is its great fish market, butcher shop, epicerie and bakery (several bakeries). The crowning glory is an excellent gourmet restaurant (sadly, the chef is passing along the baton to a new owner at the end of this month) but we are reveling in one of his last meals before the changeover.
Friday night, yes definitely, a full house, and a very chic set. Yet, we're nowhere near Deauville. There's a good 40 to 50 kilometers between here and the seaside resorts, and yet the Coquille St. Jacques tastes every bit as good as you'd expect from a Deauville seafood restaurant.
You notice I haven't mentioned the name of the restaurant - I'm holding my breath until the changeover has taken place - and will refrain from yeahs or nays until the new couple gets a chance to get into the groove of things.
In the meantime, we've been frequenting the Cormeilles Friday market which has plenty of goodies for cooking at home. One of my favorite stands is the guy who sells mountain cheeses (yes, in Normandy, buying mountain cheese may sound ridiculous - unless you just like moutain cheeses).
Friends often ask us, 'So, what do yo DO in Normandy?'. If the sun is shining, we do anything that allows us to stay outside as long as possible. And when it rains, we'll probably be playing 'Scrabble' en francais, bien sur! Bisous.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Paris Street Fashion - Fall 2009
The fashionistas have come and gone. Anna Wintour is no longer here 'doing lunch' at Le Voltaire. That leaves us normal street urchins to fend for ourselves. Not a snakeskin trenchcoat to be seen for miles.
What really tickles me is the way fashion magazines try to impose a trouser style or shape for the season. - For the past few seasons, I've been reading about how jeans were supposed to be taking a relaxed form (you may remember that from some of my posts last Fall on Parislogue) but street fashion follows the mood of the moment - and the mood is ANYTHING but relaxed.
I may be in Paris in 2009, but it could just as well be New York in the mid-eighties because the look is all about leggings, slim jeans and boots. Of course the boots have been here for aeons (as well as the indefatigable faux leopard skins) but the super tight jeans (called 'slims') are really slim. Which means for us borderline Size 38s, forget about 'slims'. Trust me. You don't want to go there. Get yourself quickly off to Camaieu where you'll find a pair of perfectly acceptable stovepipe jeans for a more than acceptable price.
But the look that REALLY brings back the eighties are mini dresses served up with opaque leggings. This look was really big in NYC around 1984-85, a particularly cold winter for NY - it snowed abundantly. So if you plan on bringing out leggings for your visit to Paris, be sure to look for that fur-lined mini-skirt to accompany the leggings!
P.S. Note the lack of street fashion photos. I've been refraining this season from stopping strangers on the street to take their photo for a blog. Such an invasion of privacy. But if you're a Parisian that LIKES to have your photo taken, than I would be more than happy take a photo for future posts.
What really tickles me is the way fashion magazines try to impose a trouser style or shape for the season. - For the past few seasons, I've been reading about how jeans were supposed to be taking a relaxed form (you may remember that from some of my posts last Fall on Parislogue) but street fashion follows the mood of the moment - and the mood is ANYTHING but relaxed.
I may be in Paris in 2009, but it could just as well be New York in the mid-eighties because the look is all about leggings, slim jeans and boots. Of course the boots have been here for aeons (as well as the indefatigable faux leopard skins) but the super tight jeans (called 'slims') are really slim. Which means for us borderline Size 38s, forget about 'slims'. Trust me. You don't want to go there. Get yourself quickly off to Camaieu where you'll find a pair of perfectly acceptable stovepipe jeans for a more than acceptable price.
But the look that REALLY brings back the eighties are mini dresses served up with opaque leggings. This look was really big in NYC around 1984-85, a particularly cold winter for NY - it snowed abundantly. So if you plan on bringing out leggings for your visit to Paris, be sure to look for that fur-lined mini-skirt to accompany the leggings!
P.S. Note the lack of street fashion photos. I've been refraining this season from stopping strangers on the street to take their photo for a blog. Such an invasion of privacy. But if you're a Parisian that LIKES to have your photo taken, than I would be more than happy take a photo for future posts.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Good Hair Day in Paris Means Finding a Plumber
Paris has its own logic. The way to find a reputable plumber is to ask your hairdresser. Ask any Parisian what's the worst thing that can happen in your apartment - it's getting a leak. The second worst thing is having your gas heater break down. Or you can simply get air in the radiator pipes at the beginning of the fall season. But then try to find someone to resolve the problem.
You can do as we did - sign up for a contract with a company that promises to come by once a year to clean out your gas heater (chaudiere) but then you read the small print and realize that this doesn't include purging the radiators or whatever else needs to be done to get the get heat moving throughout the apartment.
The hairdresser located on the main floor of our apartment house had a flood last week after torrential rains - and I caught a glimpse of the plumber who responded to her SOS. He looked like a responsible sort - so yesterday I supplicated the hairdresser to share this treasured address.
He showed up this morning and apologized for not arriving at 8:30 on the dot. He rushed to resolve the problem - and when I asked him what we owed him, he said 'Nothing'. Am I dreaming Toto? This is Paris, not OZ.
Needless to say, I followed up the plumber's visit with a trip downstairs to the hairdresser for 'the works'. After all, one hand washes the other.
I will gladly share the name of the hairdresser with you, but you may have to wrestle for the name of the plumber.
You can do as we did - sign up for a contract with a company that promises to come by once a year to clean out your gas heater (chaudiere) but then you read the small print and realize that this doesn't include purging the radiators or whatever else needs to be done to get the get heat moving throughout the apartment.
The hairdresser located on the main floor of our apartment house had a flood last week after torrential rains - and I caught a glimpse of the plumber who responded to her SOS. He looked like a responsible sort - so yesterday I supplicated the hairdresser to share this treasured address.
He showed up this morning and apologized for not arriving at 8:30 on the dot. He rushed to resolve the problem - and when I asked him what we owed him, he said 'Nothing'. Am I dreaming Toto? This is Paris, not OZ.
Needless to say, I followed up the plumber's visit with a trip downstairs to the hairdresser for 'the works'. After all, one hand washes the other.
I will gladly share the name of the hairdresser with you, but you may have to wrestle for the name of the plumber.
Monday, October 19, 2009
Paris Lunch near Gare St. Lazare Train Station
When it comes to lunch, the traditional Tabac/Bar/Brasserie is a pretty sure thing for a substantial lunch. The kind of place to look for is the Tabac/Brasserie that advertises its 'plat du jour' on a chalkboard in front of the restaurant.
We stopped in at the Tabac/Brasserie called Le Liege at 45, rue d'Amsterdam. Metro: Liege
Liege is the Metro stop just after St. Lazare on the #13 line. It's much easier to negotiate than the crowded St. Lazare exit, far fewer steps and confusing passageways. All you have to do is walk down Rue Amsterdam toward the train station, but have your lunch at the Liege brasserie first, before you catch your train.
I tried the plate of the day - magret de canard served with a light sauce and au gratin potatoes for 11 Euros. We shared the chef's dessert - chocolate mousse surrounding a pear. It was perfect. The entire bill with two main courses, a glass of wine and beer plus a dessert was 33 Euros and change. Not a bad price for lunch in Paris these days. The preferred music station is jazz so we were able to listen to a great rendition of the Marseillaise played on jazz violin. The waiter doesn't remember the name of the musician but he'll remember the next time we're back.
(It may well have been Stephane Grappelli!)
What's less brilliant is my ignorance when it comes to using my Bouygues cell phone. I haven't mastered being able to dig out the phone from the depths of my handbag before the caller signs off and then I manage somehow to press the mute key which makes it impossible to reconnect. Does anybody ever bother reading instruction manuels - who has the time? I keep forgetting that a cell phone has calculators, calendars - the time, alarms, all the conveniences. But with all these conveniences, we managed to miss meeting up with friends before they caught their train back to Caen. Perhaps it's better not to let meetings depend solely on the ability to connect with cell phones - the old fashioned way of arranging meeting points in advance has its merit. So if you want to meet, meet us at the Liege brasserie.
We stopped in at the Tabac/Brasserie called Le Liege at 45, rue d'Amsterdam. Metro: Liege
Liege is the Metro stop just after St. Lazare on the #13 line. It's much easier to negotiate than the crowded St. Lazare exit, far fewer steps and confusing passageways. All you have to do is walk down Rue Amsterdam toward the train station, but have your lunch at the Liege brasserie first, before you catch your train.
I tried the plate of the day - magret de canard served with a light sauce and au gratin potatoes for 11 Euros. We shared the chef's dessert - chocolate mousse surrounding a pear. It was perfect. The entire bill with two main courses, a glass of wine and beer plus a dessert was 33 Euros and change. Not a bad price for lunch in Paris these days. The preferred music station is jazz so we were able to listen to a great rendition of the Marseillaise played on jazz violin. The waiter doesn't remember the name of the musician but he'll remember the next time we're back.
(It may well have been Stephane Grappelli!)
What's less brilliant is my ignorance when it comes to using my Bouygues cell phone. I haven't mastered being able to dig out the phone from the depths of my handbag before the caller signs off and then I manage somehow to press the mute key which makes it impossible to reconnect. Does anybody ever bother reading instruction manuels - who has the time? I keep forgetting that a cell phone has calculators, calendars - the time, alarms, all the conveniences. But with all these conveniences, we managed to miss meeting up with friends before they caught their train back to Caen. Perhaps it's better not to let meetings depend solely on the ability to connect with cell phones - the old fashioned way of arranging meeting points in advance has its merit. So if you want to meet, meet us at the Liege brasserie.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Just Back from Mushooming
This is the second year of dry weather in October. Not good for mushrooming. Nevertheless, thanks to our fearless gatherers, we ate mushrooms at both meals over the weekend: twenty-two 'bolets' these are the 'cepe's' cousin, a little bit more 'gras' in taste than the 'cepe' but a very nice accompaniment for a 'pot au feu' or pot roast with carrots, turnips and leeks.
You know the mushroom harvest is sparse when you actually have to count how many mushrooms end up in the baskets. Sadly, no 'pied de mouton' this year - and no trompettes de la mort.
But the camaraderie makes up for any lack of mushrooms. The wine tasting helped us forget - songs and fireside stories - a visit from Madame La Comtesse - ahh! That's life at the chateau.
You know the mushroom harvest is sparse when you actually have to count how many mushrooms end up in the baskets. Sadly, no 'pied de mouton' this year - and no trompettes de la mort.
But the camaraderie makes up for any lack of mushrooms. The wine tasting helped us forget - songs and fireside stories - a visit from Madame La Comtesse - ahh! That's life at the chateau.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Paris Opera House Bastille: Barber of Seville
Give me a choice between Garnier Opera House and Bastille and I'll opt for Garnier every time. Bastille would be perfect - for a rock concert. Past president Francois Mitterand may have built the Bastille opera house with the intent that more Parisians might be able to attend the opera - but, for the most part, going to the opera tends to be an event for the privileged - those that can scramble to the internet site in mid-July to secure tickets for an October date. It cost us 116 Euros per ticket for first balcony seats - yet I've been told over the years that the balcony is the best acoustic location for opera. Perhaps that's true at some opera houses - but I found at the Bastille, Figaro (George Petean) was, in certain instances, drowned out by the orchestra.
It's been at least ten years since we went to an Olivier Messiaen concert at the Bastille. Last night's Barber of Seville with mezzo soprano Karinne Deshayes was quite a different experience (October 14th, 2009). If only Coline Serrau, this production's set designer, had been commissioned to decorate the interior of the Bastille as well! Is it possible for a set design to steal the show? The variation of blue and orange/red lighting brings to mind hand-tinted silent film scenes. The depiction of Moorish Spanish palace is exquisite.
George Petean brought plenty of charm and delight as Figaro. Karinne Deshayes showed that she can exercise not only her voice but her ninja capabilities, throwing so much of the set props around - you might want to call her up for your next apartment move.
Supposedly the last night allows for some 'humor' to be thrown in - a little wink of the eye, however according to other internet comments, Count Almaviva's stripping down to a soccer shirt (Zidane's number?) was included starting with the opening performance. More amusing were the few Mancini Pink Panther notes that crept into two scenes.
As for the total 'Bastille opera experience', I have to be honest, the Bastille Opera House is monolithic. If you like that style - fine. I wasn't wowed by the acoustics. There are elevators, but the majority of balcony ticket-holders hoofed it up the steps - and there are plenty, even to get to the first balcony i.e. don't wear your spiky heels!
In fact, you can easily wear your jeans if it isn't opening night. Some people still dress up for the opera but anything goes. (apparently even soccer shirts are okay!) If you are staying around Montparnasse - lucky you. The Montparnasse #95 line can be caught right across the street from the main entrance.
Is it possible to get those 8 Euro tickets that are enticingly advertised on the Opera de Paris website? Who knows? One of these days, I'll figure out how to do that - and if so, we'll be going to the opera much more often. In the meantime, I'm saving up for a return to the Garnier Opera House. There's still no place like it!
It's been at least ten years since we went to an Olivier Messiaen concert at the Bastille. Last night's Barber of Seville with mezzo soprano Karinne Deshayes was quite a different experience (October 14th, 2009). If only Coline Serrau, this production's set designer, had been commissioned to decorate the interior of the Bastille as well! Is it possible for a set design to steal the show? The variation of blue and orange/red lighting brings to mind hand-tinted silent film scenes. The depiction of Moorish Spanish palace is exquisite.
George Petean brought plenty of charm and delight as Figaro. Karinne Deshayes showed that she can exercise not only her voice but her ninja capabilities, throwing so much of the set props around - you might want to call her up for your next apartment move.
Supposedly the last night allows for some 'humor' to be thrown in - a little wink of the eye, however according to other internet comments, Count Almaviva's stripping down to a soccer shirt (Zidane's number?) was included starting with the opening performance. More amusing were the few Mancini Pink Panther notes that crept into two scenes.
As for the total 'Bastille opera experience', I have to be honest, the Bastille Opera House is monolithic. If you like that style - fine. I wasn't wowed by the acoustics. There are elevators, but the majority of balcony ticket-holders hoofed it up the steps - and there are plenty, even to get to the first balcony i.e. don't wear your spiky heels!
In fact, you can easily wear your jeans if it isn't opening night. Some people still dress up for the opera but anything goes. (apparently even soccer shirts are okay!) If you are staying around Montparnasse - lucky you. The Montparnasse #95 line can be caught right across the street from the main entrance.
Is it possible to get those 8 Euro tickets that are enticingly advertised on the Opera de Paris website? Who knows? One of these days, I'll figure out how to do that - and if so, we'll be going to the opera much more often. In the meantime, I'm saving up for a return to the Garnier Opera House. There's still no place like it!
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Renoir Exhibit at the Grand Palais
Matisse raved about Renoir's nudes - calling one of his later works - maybe the best nudes ever painted. Seeing is believing - or not believing. Whether you agree or disagree with Matisse's praise, here's an opportunity to see a large sampling of Renoir's later works under one glass roof - at the Grand Palais.
What really surprised me about this exhibit was Chris's reaction. Normally he's the first person to praise Renoir - and he admitted being somewhat disappointed. The paintings that he loves best are those that were painted BEFORE Renoir broke away from the Impressionist movement so if one was hoping to see the famous guinguette scenes (that can be seen at Musee d'Orsay), then you'd be in for a disappointment.
Renoir's attitude toward his painting was quite modest- he saw his work as being a more decorative statement rather than an 'oeuvre'. For example, you could have probably requested Renoir to paint a few living room panels for your Paris apartment (maybe even in a particular theme or color) without insulting the artist. Some of these panels are actually included in the exhibit.
Another surprise for those of us who've only seen his paintings was the exhibit devoted to his sculpture and charcoal drawings. It was also later in life when he moved toward sculpture, but because of his arthritis, he was obliged to collaborate with other artists to be his 'hands'. The result is admirable - and even the busts of his children (which are described in the exhibit as naif) are sweet and frank.
All four of us agreed that his nudes tend toward the same body shape - and one might be tempted to wonder if not always the same body. If you don't like your female forms in the XXX large category - you may not find Renoir's nudes to be so appealing. What is more distressing than that is to note that these 19h century models seemed to have adult bodies and children's heads!
Nevertheless, Renoir's rosy view of the world deserves the attention it has received. There's no better way to appreciate his rich palette than by juxtaposing his paintings alongside a Picasso nude for example (which is also part of the exhibit).
We went to the show on a Monday night because the Grand Palais is open until 10 pm, and because we had purchased the tickets in advance at FNAC bookstore, we were able to go in directly though the 'line-cutter's entrance on the Champs Elysees. The one thing to remember if you buy an advanced ticket at FNAC, you reserve an entrance at a specific time. There's a half hour grace period for arriving late - after that you're out of luck.
We almost missed the half hour grace period. BTW, the Grand Palais, like the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays.
What really surprised me about this exhibit was Chris's reaction. Normally he's the first person to praise Renoir - and he admitted being somewhat disappointed. The paintings that he loves best are those that were painted BEFORE Renoir broke away from the Impressionist movement so if one was hoping to see the famous guinguette scenes (that can be seen at Musee d'Orsay), then you'd be in for a disappointment.
Renoir's attitude toward his painting was quite modest- he saw his work as being a more decorative statement rather than an 'oeuvre'. For example, you could have probably requested Renoir to paint a few living room panels for your Paris apartment (maybe even in a particular theme or color) without insulting the artist. Some of these panels are actually included in the exhibit.
Another surprise for those of us who've only seen his paintings was the exhibit devoted to his sculpture and charcoal drawings. It was also later in life when he moved toward sculpture, but because of his arthritis, he was obliged to collaborate with other artists to be his 'hands'. The result is admirable - and even the busts of his children (which are described in the exhibit as naif) are sweet and frank.
All four of us agreed that his nudes tend toward the same body shape - and one might be tempted to wonder if not always the same body. If you don't like your female forms in the XXX large category - you may not find Renoir's nudes to be so appealing. What is more distressing than that is to note that these 19h century models seemed to have adult bodies and children's heads!
Nevertheless, Renoir's rosy view of the world deserves the attention it has received. There's no better way to appreciate his rich palette than by juxtaposing his paintings alongside a Picasso nude for example (which is also part of the exhibit).
We went to the show on a Monday night because the Grand Palais is open until 10 pm, and because we had purchased the tickets in advance at FNAC bookstore, we were able to go in directly though the 'line-cutter's entrance on the Champs Elysees. The one thing to remember if you buy an advanced ticket at FNAC, you reserve an entrance at a specific time. There's a half hour grace period for arriving late - after that you're out of luck.
We almost missed the half hour grace period. BTW, the Grand Palais, like the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Paris Laundry
Suffering from Paris envy? Think laundry. This post is dedicated to my sister and D. who are in the process of installing an 'almost' brand new washing machine in their apartment. Well, we've been here in the City of Lights for more years than I care to mention - and after too many years of lugging laundry out to the country, I have FINALLY succumbed to the laundromat. This is definitely not a glamorous way to spend a Sunday afternoon in Paris, but in case you've ever wondered about where and how to do laundry here - it's not much different than in the U.S.
The cost for a 14kilo or large load of laundry (called professional load) is 7 Euros (currently) and 1 Euro for a 10 minute drying cycle. Considering the cost of 'Pressing' or drycleaning, the choice is a no-brainer, but really, there seems like so many better things to be doing in Paris. On the bright side, you're likely to bump into some other travelers that eventually make their way to the LavMat. The Sunday crowd at the Rue Delambre (14eme) is a rather dressy crowd. Matching leather boots and shoulder bags, shiny black 'caddies', that's not cadillac, BTW, but the obligatory pushcart which doubles up as a shopping aid for Monoprix.
And you thought Paris was all about glamour?
The cost for a 14kilo or large load of laundry (called professional load) is 7 Euros (currently) and 1 Euro for a 10 minute drying cycle. Considering the cost of 'Pressing' or drycleaning, the choice is a no-brainer, but really, there seems like so many better things to be doing in Paris. On the bright side, you're likely to bump into some other travelers that eventually make their way to the LavMat. The Sunday crowd at the Rue Delambre (14eme) is a rather dressy crowd. Matching leather boots and shoulder bags, shiny black 'caddies', that's not cadillac, BTW, but the obligatory pushcart which doubles up as a shopping aid for Monoprix.
And you thought Paris was all about glamour?
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Twitter Lashback
There's only one reason, no two reasons why I've decided to start blogging (again) while in Paris. The first reason is that the word limit on Twitter drives me crazy. The second reason is for friends who may be wondering if I've permanently disconnected from cyberspace. Commercially speaking, yes. This isn't meant to be a blog about Paris - I just happen to be in the City of Light at this point in time. I have nothing to sell. This is just about 'having fun'. You are welcome to come along for the trip. Cheers.
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